FAQs

Q: How does your ignition system work?

Q: What does the ignition kit contain?

Q: Is your kit easy to fit?

Q: What type of ignition coils should I use with your kit?

Q: Do you have a kit to fit my triple/six cylinder?

Q: Which of your ignition kits will fit my RD/Yamaha 2 stroke twin?

Q: My model is not listed, do you manufacture a kit for it?

Q: What should I do if I have a problem fitting the kit or if I suspect there is a fault?

Q: How do I time up my new ignition system?

REGULATOR RECTIFIER

Q: How does your regulator rectifier work?

Q: Is your regulator rectifier easy to fit?

Q: Which of your regulator rectifiers fits my bike?

Q: What should I do if I can't get the regulator rectifier to work?

IGNITION SYSTEMS

Q: How does your ignition system work?

All our ignition kits work in basically the same way.

The points are replaced by optical pick-ups/triggers which consist of an infra-red lamp and sensor, there could be one, two or three of these pick-ups per lamp set depending on the vehicle.

A plastic or metal rotor with a cut out blade is fitted on to the points cam/ATU or replaces the points cam/ignition drive shaft. As the rotor rotates, it blocks the infra-red light from the sensor until it reaches the cut-out, at this point a signal is sent to the switching unit/amplifier which fires your coil(s) depending on which pick-up has sent the signal. One of the main benefits of this system is there are no contacting parts, so once its set up and timed you can forget about it!

Q: What does the ignition kit contain?

All our ignition kits contain the following:-

• Optical trigger(s): The lamp set supplied consists of one, two or three optical triggers connected to a long wire lead to be connected to the switching unit.
  
  
• Mounting for Optical Trigger(s): This will be a new baseplate, segment plate or adapter plate depending on the kit.
  
  
• Rotor(s): In some kits there are several rotors supplied to increase the number of vehicles that kit will fit.
  
  
• Switching Unit: This will be a single, twin, or triple channel switching unit depending on the vehicle.
  
  
• Wiring Loom (Motorcycle only): A wiring loom is supplied, where ever possible, with the correct type of connector for your bike to connect the switching unit to the coils and the switched live feed. Car switching units use standard wire colours and have lucar spade terminals.
  
  
• Sticky Pad: An industrial strength sticky pad is supplied to stick the switching unit in a convenient place.

Extras: All necessary screws are supplied. Some kits also have different size spacers to raise or lower the height of the pick-ups if necessary.

Note: A small amount of Loctite or similar thread loc should be used on all screws.

Q: Is your kit easy to fit?

Yes, our kits are easy to fit. If you are capable of replacing points and timing your bike/car our kit should be no problem at all.
As a guide it should take you between 1 to 2 hours start to finish, including timing!

Q: What type of ignition coils should I use with your kit?

Our ignition system is designed to use the original coils for your vehicle, this significantly reduces the cost of converting to electronic ignition. Replacement coils should be not less than 3 Ohm primary resistance.
We sell a range of coils that have been fully tested with our ignition kits, contact us for further details. Coils will be coming soon to our shopping page.

Q: Do you have a kit to fit my triple/six cylinder?

We currently do kits off the shelf for:-

• Yamaha XS Triples points and early electronic ignition models.
  
  
• Suzuki GTs 380,550 and 750.
  
  
• Benelli Sei six cylinder points models.

If your model is not listed here we may be able, with your help, to convert a current triple kit to fit yours. See Q. My model is not listed, do you manufacture a kit for it?

Q: Which of your ignition kits will fit my RD/Yamaha 2 stroke twin?

Your bike will have either a Mitsubishi or a Hitachi alternator, and be either USA spec. or Non USA spec. See below. Bikes made:

• Before 1976 have a pressed steel alternator housing (Mitsubishi) use kit number YAM1
  
  After 1976 with pressed steel alternator housing (Mitsubishi) are USA spec, use YAM2A
  
  
• After 1976 with cast alloy alternator housing (Hitachi) are non-USA spec, use YAM2

If you are not sure which is the right kit for you contact our technical support. See Contact Us page.

Q: My model is not listed, do you manufacture a kit for it?

Our kit list is constantly being updated, contact us to see if we do a kit off the shelf.

If we don't do a kit for your model there are still a couple of things we can do!

1) We can try to design one with your help, this would involve sending us some parts like distributor or base plates or even better the bike or car for us to work on here, this is by far the better method as all the wiring can be tailored to the vehicle.

2) You can try and modify an existing kit to fit; we will support you as much as possible with technical help and the required parts. This method depends upon whether or not you have any light engineering equipment available to you and if you have a little practical mechanical and electrical knowledge.

If using either of the above methods you help us to produce a commercially viable kit it is our policy to supply all the required parts at a discount.

Q: What should I do if I have a problem fitting the kit or if I suspect there is a fault?

In the unlikely event you have to return a kit for testing/repair, send as much back as possible, with a description of the symptoms and when they occur, including full make and model details for the vehicle and a daytime contact number so we can contact you to discuss our findings with you in real time.

There is nothing more frustrating for a customer or an engineer to have to wait for mailed or e-mailed questions/thoughts to be passed back and forth, this just causes misunderstanding and unnecessary delays, and we want you up and running as much as you do!
The kit will be tested and repaired on the same day it arrives at our factory, or at the latest, the day after, and returned to you immediately.
We cannot be held responsible for returns that do not reach us because they are lost in the post, use registered post. If you are returning a unit from outside the U.K. you must state to your carrier that it is being returned for repair, otherwise we get charged import tax which will be passed on to you.

Q: How do I time up my new ignition system?

Timing your new ignition system is the same as for points, consult your manual.

When timing the engine, you should be out of direct bright light, and when timed up, all covers need to be replaced on the engine before it is taken outside and run, or it will not run correctly. The triggers/pick-ups in our system use infra-red light, and an outside source of light will interfere with them.

When timing a two stroke that has the timing marks near where the triggers are located, the static method should be used, preferably with a dial gauge for accuracy. Using a strobe light can cause false readings, as the strobe will be shining on the triggers. A strobe light is only necessary for engines that have a mechanical advance and retard system and not for 2 strokes, which nearly always fire at the same point throughout the revs.

REGULATOR RECTIFIER

Q: How does your regulator rectifier work?

Our regulator rectifiers work in two ways.

1) First, it rectifies the phases. This means it converts the AC power generated by your alternator into DC so it can be used by your electric's i.e. lights and gauges.

2) Second, as the bike revs go up, the generator produces more power; this would be detrimental to your battery and electric's. Our system regulates the power to about 14.4 Volts DC this is perfect for keeping the battery fully charged. What's more as long as the generator is producing enough power the regulator will produce 14.4 Volts even if all your lights are on.

If your battery is losing its charge, but it is in good condition, and your alternator is working correctly, then the chances are, its your bikes regulator rectifier at fault.

Q: Is your regulator rectifier easy to fit?

Yes, it should take you less than an hour to fit. In some cases it could be as quick as ten minutes. To fit our regulator rectifier to your bike you need at least a basic understanding of your bikes electrical system and a wiring diagram.
If you are unsure whether or not to fit this yourself call our technical department who will discuss it with you, we can even fax or post you a copy of the fitting instructions so you will know just how easy it is to fit before you buy!

Q: Which of your regulator rectifiers fits my bike?

There are two main types of alternator that are fitted to most bikes, each requiring a different type of regulator rectifier.

1) The one that most people are familiar with is known as the Permanent Magnet Rotor alternator (PMR). This has ordinary magnets that revolve with the engine, either inside or around a set of wound coils to produce power. These come in various shapes and sizes. Some have two output wires, but most have three, so we'll start there. A three wire (phase) Permanent Magnet Rotor alternator on a bike of less than 900 cc's and with an A.C. output between any two of the 'phases' of less than 70 volts will use our standard type regulator rectifier PMR. A two-wire type with the (otherwise) same specs will need type PMR 2.2D. Bikes over 900 cc's or with an alternator A.C. output of more than 70 volts will use our type PMR 3.2/VF for three wire and PMR 2.2/D for two wire. If your bike has a charge warning light, then the part number has a suffix of "/LD" (PMR2.2/LD - PMR 3.2/LD).

2) The other type we deal with is known as the Field Control Type (FCT). This has a 'field' or 'exciter' coil that is in place of the fixed magnets. When supplied with power from the regulator this becomes magnetic. Some types have this coil spinning inside the output 'phase' coils to give power, and will have carbon brush connections. Others have a stationary field coil, stationary phase coils and have a metal rotor spinning between the two, and need no brushes. The amount of power supplied to the field coil from the regulator decides how much output the alternator will give. The Field Control Type alternators use our rectifier regulator FCT. Note, where your bike has a charge warning light, you will lose this facility with our FCT.

We will also consider making 'one off specials' for other types of generator (E.g. field control Dynamo's). These are guidelines only, and if you have any doubts as to which type of regulator rectifier fits your bike, contact our technical support.

Q: What should I do if I can't get the regulator rectifier to work?

First double check the wiring using our fitting instructions and your wiring diagram. Then check that all the wires have good connections, some of them carry a lot of power. If this fails to get the unit working, contact our technical support with the vehicle details and we will try our best to help you.